One of the most difficult things about making barricades is gathering together the items that will be piled up. Spare bits from kits are great for this purpose however it can take quite a long time to amass a suitable collection. On the other hand, these barricades by pescadormarco are made from items that every terrain maker should all have in abundance.
pescadormarco takes us through the process:
I use installation 1 inch thick polystyrene insulation foam for my bases and cut them out using a Wonder Cutter (a hot wire cutter). After I cut out the basic shape, I cut an angle into foam and wiggled it around to give it an eroded look.
MDF, hardboard, cardboard and various other materials can be used for the bases and you can also use a knife to cut the foam. However the foam and hotwire cutter combination is best/easiest. The other materials are harder to shape and if you use a knife to do the edge texture on foam you will probably end up with slice marks that need to be hidden (because you can only cut in one direction). The hot wire cutter has the advantage that you can cut in, and then pull back at a different angle - no slice marks.
The next step is to add the details and these are made from wooden coffee stirrers (balsa works too), kebab sticks, thin wire, and granny grating.
The 'trick' is to use those items to create different shapes and textures. Notice (image below) how some of the coffee stirrers are snapped to give a rough end while others have been cut. It's subtle but if they were all snapped, or all cut, then there wouldn't appear to be quite as big a variety of clutter.
The wire is also worth a specific mention. I use jewellery wire and stretch it before wrapping it very tightly around the poles. Note that this is one of the areas where coffee stirrers (hard) are better than balsa (soft). after cutting off the excess, I give it a 'old wire look' by pulling at it to give it the appearance that it's almost giving way.
Items from your bits box can be added at this stage but sometimes it's better to leave them off so that the terrain is less genre specific.
The next step is to add kitty litter mixed with PVA glue. Spread it around the base of fence posts and other items of clutter. This is a really important step as it's what gives it the makeshift look. It 'ties' the clutter in to the base and really makes it look 'piled up' as opposed to merely 'placed'.
From here on it's all about painting and I suggest you start with a solid basecoat of black. This is better painted than sprayed for two reasons:
1. Sprays will tend to eat into the foam (not necessarily a bad thing on a piece like this so long as it's done in a controlled way).
2. You really need to get black paint into ALL the nooks and crannies and this is easier to do with brushloads of thinned paint. You'll use up an awful lot of spray if you try to do it that way.
Further painting will largely depend on the colour schemes that you have in use on your gaming table i.e. sandy, earthy, etc. I usually paint the ground a dark coffee bean brown with the kitty litter/rocks the same color or a grey rock color. I normally paint the granny grating with a mix of steel and gold or bronze to give a rusted appearance. I then dry-brushing most things using a lighter shade of their normal color, and apply a rusty coloured wash to the granny grating.
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TerraGenesis was created in 1997 by Gary James and is currently owned, edited and maintained by Andy Slater, however the ideas and opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors. TerraGenesis and its content are © Andy Slater, unless otherwise stated, and should not be reproduced without permission.
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